Fragrance Note
Patchouli
Used in 2043+ fragrances on FragranVerse
What it smells like
Patchouli oil is steam-distilled from the dried, fermented leaves of Pogostemon cablin, a bushy herb native to tropical Southeast Asia. Indonesia produces over 90% of the global supply. Roughly 1,600 metric tons annually. After harvesting, leaves are shade-dried and partially fermented for two to eight days. This fermentation ruptures cell walls, triggers enzymatic pathways, and fundamentally alters both oil yield and scent profile. The oil's chemistry is dominated by sesquiterpenes, with patchoulol constituting 25. 40%. The molecule most responsible for patchouli's characteristic odour is norpatchoulenol, present at roughly 0.3. 5.7% but with an exceptionally low odour threshold.
How it's used in perfumery
Base-note anchor and fixative of extraordinary tenacity. Perceptible on blotter for weeks. Structurally essential to chypre compositions, where it provides the dark, earthy counterweight to bright citrus. Equally critical in amber fragrances, where it reinforces vanilla and amber, and in modern woody compositions, where it supplies density and persistence. Beyond its scent contribution, patchouli functions as a physical fixative: its high-molecular-weight sesquiterpenes slow the evaporation of lighter materials, extending perceived longevity. As IFRA restrictions on natural oakmoss have tightened, patchouli has assumed a larger structural role in modern chypres and fougères.
Fun fact
In 19th-century Europe, Indian cashmere shawls arrived packed with dried patchouli leaves to repel moths during sea voyages, making patchouli scent associated with authentic Kashmiri imports.
Perfumes with Patchouli(80 of 2043)
Middle East
(35)
Designer
(21)Niche
(24)